This Tangkhul Naga fashion designer is preserving history, one weave at a time

Imphal: Easternlight Zimik, a renowned fashion designer and illustrator from the Tangkhul community in Manipur, is striving to revive traditional textiles with a modern outlook.

Since launching his debut brand, East, in 2023 in his hometown of Ukhrul, his textile collection of Kashan/Mekhala (wraparound), made only from the traditional back-strap loin loom, has swiftly gained visibility across the country. Through his brand, Zimik aims to revolutionize Tangkhul traditional weaving techniques and make Kashan (Mekhala) an everyday fashion item.

With the emergence of modern technology, the Tangkhul traditional technique of making textiles by back-strap loin loom is slowly dying and is now practiced by only a few weavers.

Recently, Zimik was among a group of emerging fashion designers from diverse indigenous communities of India who showcased their designs at the India Art Fair in Delhi.

Making it to the big stage

A first-of-its-kind groundbreaking exhibition, ‘Indigenous Fashion Futures: A Living Archive,’ was presented by the India Art Fair in collaboration with the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) from February 2 to 9, 2025, in New Delhi.

Curated by Sreyansi Singh, the exhibition aimed to explore the indigenous fashion identities of India through contemporary design pieces.

The exhibition showcased four emerging Indigenous designers from India—Zimik’s East (Manipur), Boito (Odisha), Johargram (Jharkhand), and 2112 Saldon (Ladakh)—to create a new genre of ‘fashion installations’ that blend clothing with history, community, textile, craft, and contemporary design.

Sharing his experience at the India Art Fair, Zimik said, “This is a significant milestone for me and my brand to be recognized and given a space in such an event like the India Art Fair in association with FDCI. It’s very encouraging to see other creatives who approach fashion in different ways and change their perspectives in many ways. For us, I hope we can push more and create more of our indigenous skills and push the world.”

As part of a larger project to identify and map such fashion design practices, the curator positions them as “record-keepers of their ancestors, as living, unyielding archives for the future—breathing, singing, resisting.”

While expressing the privilege and honor of presenting his exhibit among many creatives, including FDCI Chairman Sunil Sethi, Zimik further shared that the sole purpose of exhibiting his brand was to make Kashan/Mekhala more acceptable to the mainland market and also to showcase the weavers’ skills on a better platform.

The exhibition’s curatorial arch notes, “This contemporary Indigenous clothes-making issues a new political power and social collectivism that harnesses legacies of generational knowledge and resilience to create new systems of innovation. The research and development is situated beyond systematic fashion ateliers, instead at homes and fields while people sing and sow. All towards building vocabularies of contemporary fashion design.”

“This is indeed a starter to open different chapters of our weaving narratives,” Zimik added.

Weaving Stories Through Traditional Textiles

For Zimik’s East, each design is made purely using traditional techniques and textiles. This practice is not just about safeguarding and preserving the rich heritage of the Tangkhul Naga community but also ensuring a progressive movement and a sustainable fashion industry.

“The act of weaving is not just about making clothes but a way of preserving our history, telling our stories, and ensuring that our knowledge is not lost in modernity,” said Zimik.

Locally known as Pangsak, a textile made only on the traditional back-strap loin loom, this practice is now concentrated among only a few weavers, facing the possibility of extinction in the future.

However, despite the challenges posed by the widespread use of mechanical weaving in the local market, Zimik’s team continues to strive and is committed to preserving the indigenous ways of making clothes and the skills of craftsmanship.

At East, the textile colors are inspired by the vibrant colors of the spring season, also known as the king of seasons and considered one of the best seasons in Manipur, and accessorized with traditional beadwork of the community.

At present, at least seven skilled women weavers are full-time workers at Zimik’s East, practicing traditional techniques and showcasing the power of craftsmanship. This weaving space at East has served as a safe house for the weavers to share and care for each other while also enabling them to earn a stable source of income.

“Even though our job here is hectic and tiresome, it feels good to have friends or fellow weavers working together in one place, which is quite different from working alone at home,” said Luxmi, when this EastMojo correspondent visited East’s workshed in Ukhrul town.

Luxmi, a native of Shorpung village under Kamjong district, has been weaving for more than 20 years to support her family and her three children’s education.

Before working at East, Luxmi, a widow, used to make the Tangkhul traditional Kashan and shawl depending on orders. However, she no longer works on private orders after becoming a full-time weaver at East.

She also lauded Zimik’s venture to safeguard and promote Tangkhul Naga culture through his revolutionized traditional weaving techniques and their transformation into a more widely accepted fashion brand.

Rawonla, 34, the youngest among the seven weavers at East, shared that she started weaving when she was studying in Class 6 after learning the skills from her mother. However, she only started weaving professionally after joining Zimik’s venture.

“I used to know only simple motifs, but after coming here, I have learned more intricate designs and motifs from other senior weavers,” she said.

This young weaver also maintained that one needs to focus while weaving because even small mistakes require redoing the entire design since each motif is made with delicate and intricate details.

Nimshim, who also has nearly 20 years of weaving experience, feels that most youngsters from the community do not value traditional clothes despite the efforts and hard work put in by the weavers.

Despite navigating numerous obstacles and challenges, including sourcing raw materials from another state and a lack of proper communication in hill districts like Ukhrul, Zimik remains firm and resolute in pursuing his dream and vision.

From East’s collections, the unique motifs and details draw inspiration from the rich storytelling heritage and surroundings. Zimik is also creating a platform for weavers and craftsmen to showcase the endless possibilities of traditional skills to the community and beyond.

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