Imphal: For generations, the Tangkhul Nagas in Myanmar, also known as the Eastern Tangkhuls, have maintained close ties with the Tangkhul Nagas living in India’s Manipur state, united by a shared bloodline, language, cultural identity and traditions.
Despite being separated by what they claim as an ‘artificial international boundary’, both the Tangkhuls of India and Myanmar continue to foster strong connections across the border.
Even before the political instability took place in Myanmar, the Tangkhul Nagas living across the border areas actively engaged in cross-border trade, exchanging forest produce, livestock and handicrafts.
For advanced healthcare, education and economic opportunities, people living along the Somra tract in Myanmar frequently travel to the nearest town, Ukhrul, in Manipur. Ukhrul is about 150 km from Layshi Township, one of the biggest towns which lies within Myanmar’s Naga Self-Administered Zone in Sagaing region, and connects to Tusom village, the last Indian border village in the north-eastern part of Ukhrul district.
Travellers from both sides are required to enter a biometric checkpoint manned by the Assam Rifles at Tusom village, located about 16 km from Somra, the nearest village in Myanmar to Ukhrul and close to border pillar no. 129.
However, following the ongoing crisis in Myanmar, many Tangkhul Naga villages living across the border now heavily depend on essential household items from the Indian side.
Due to a lack of direct commercial highways and limited infrastructure across the hill ranges, Nagas in Myanmar are compelled to travel along the remote international border terrain in order to access markets in India.
According to the records maintained by the Tangkhul Naga Awunga Long (TNAL) and the Tangkhul Naga Baptist Association (Myanmar), there are over 30 recognised Tangkhul villages across the Somra Tract under Myanmar.
These villages include Somra, Pha Phoa (New Somra), Phungtret, Leiyum, Pansat, Mayelung, Old Kalen (Kokailung), New Kalen (Kokailung), Raakhenlhun, Shwebeaye, Yeror, Naungbin, Menton, Moepenluh, Bunpan, Ngachan, Reyjo, Old Hingkut, New Hingkut, Yennwen (Hamlet), Htamanti (Hamlet), Koki, Koki Songpya, Myag Nigone, Old Jila, New Jila, Tharyar, Min Nar, Khotuk, Cha Garong and Palen.
From India’s last village in Manipur to Myanmar:
During a recent visit to Myanmar’s Naga Province, our EastMojo correspondent witnessed firsthand how villagers in this border region rely on the rugged, mountainous tracks and unpaved roads to reach markets and pursue livelihood opportunities in the nearest border town, Ukhrul, on the Indian side.
The condition of these roads deteriorates further during the monsoon season, rendering them almost non-motorable without deploying machinery like JCBs along the way. As a result, border residents are forced to rely on two-wheelers, particularly Kenbo bikes, to carry out emergency activities.
According to Whitzaw Para, a 40-year-old man from Layshi Township, the road conditions along the border area connecting to India have worsened this year due to the frequent passage of heavy vehicles such as Shaktiman and other off-road vehicles carrying fuel from India.
“After these heavy vehicles traversed the road, vehicles like pick-up trucks and smaller vehicles carrying passengers and essential products find it difficult to pass, often leaving residents stranded along the way,” said Para, who is on the way to Ukhrul town in India but has been stranded for two days at Koki village.
Para noted that residents of villages near Layshi often seek medical care at the 25-bed health centre located in Layshi Township. For more serious health issues, however, they have to travel to Homalin or Mandalay, the second-largest city in Myanmar. Some individuals also cross into India to access advanced medical treatment.
This Eastern Tangkhul Naga goods transporter also emphasised that the ongoing crisis in his country is making it increasingly difficult for residents to travel freely, as movement restrictions have been imposed in certain areas.
Few villages in Myanmar’s Naga region have access to electricity, and those that are electrified often receive power only intermittently through a rationed system. In villages without electricity connections, residents must invest in batteries or solar panels to provide basic lighting for their homes.
According to SV Amon, a resident of Somra village, there is no power station in his village. However, the village authority provides electricity through a generator from 6 pm to 10 pm every day. Residents must charge their electronic appliances during this limited window of power supply.
In recent times, Somra, a village of over 300 households, has been upgraded to the status of a border town, with small businesses flourishing along its main thoroughfare. In 2013, the Myanmar government constructed a hospital, with professional medical practitioners and nurses. However, the ongoing political instability in the country has severely disrupted the Naga Self-Administered Zone, triggering shortages of food supplies and healthcare services.
On our way to Somra, we encountered several residents from Myanmar, some visiting India, others attempting to return home, however, stranded near border pillar no. 129.
A massive landslide has completely blocked the road, leaving them unable to proceed for a day. For people living along the border areas, such incidents are not rare; they are frequent due to the region’s rugged terrain and poor road conditions.
Sangtejoy, a resident of Phungtret village, stood with a group of Bolero pick-up drivers from Myanmar, their vehicles heavily loaded with goods.
They watched anxiously as two JCBs worked tirelessly to clear the massive piles of earth that had been pulled down by a recent landslide, blocking their route towards home.
According to Sangtejoy, his village in Myanmar is only a day’s journey from Ukhrul town in India. However, due to the deplorable road conditions, what should be a simple trip often turns into a weeklong ordeal when returning home after purchasing goods from Ukhrul.
Besides having access to markets in the nearest Indian town, Sangtejoy noted that many women from the Somra tract region are engaged in handloom work in Ukhrul town. This is largely because weaving materials are difficult to obtain in Myanmar, prompting many women to seek opportunities across the border.
“Most of the women who come to Ukhrul are engaged in weaving. And once the handloom products are ready, they are outsourced to Myanmar for sale,” he said.
Promoting social ties through language
For generations, the Tangkhul Nagas in Myanmar have maintained and preserved their unique identity and culture, despite facing geographical isolation from their counterparts in India and the pressures of modern challenges.
In an effort to further strengthen ties with the Tangkhul Naga brethren in India, a group of like-minded individuals has launched an initiative to promote the teaching and learning of the Tangkhul and Nagamese languages.
According to Mercy Thaphante, her village, Kokailung (Kalen), has about 300 households, but only around 20 villagers, mostly elders, can speak and understand Tangkhul. This language is important because Tangkhul is a common language for Tangkhul Nagas living in India and learning it will help villagers communicate and connect more effectively in interactions.
Mercy and the other youth from the village are attending the language learning class being conducted at Kalen Baptist Church.
“Whenever we visit Ukhrul or other Tangkhul areas in India, we often face difficulties in communication due to the language barrier and are unable to express our thoughts. Having such an initiative for language will bring us closer,” she said.
Kokailung (Kalen) is one of the largest traditional Tangkhul Naga settlements, located in the Somra Tract region of northwestern Myanmar near the border with India. Villagers primarily depend on agriculture for their livelihood.
According to Mercy, there is only one government school in the village, and not all parents can afford to send their children to school. Those unable to attend school either help their parents with farming or travel to Mandalay in search of work. Some also go to India to pursue employment or educational opportunities, she said.
Despite the lack of infrastructure and limited opportunities due to its remote location, the Tangkhul Nagas are distinguished by their rich cultural heritage, strong traditional values, unique identity and language. These qualities reflect the resilience, unity and close ties that the Eastern Tangkhuls share with the Nagas living in India.
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