Biakdika, a resident of Maryland in the United States, had not been home to Aizawl in eight years. An Overseas Citizen of India (OCI) cardholder, he and his wife flew in for his brother-in-law’s memorial program. They planned to spend time with relatives in Lunglei and Shillong afterwards.
But, the trip began with a surprise. When he landed at Indira Gandhi International Airport in May 2026, he learned he would need a Protected Area Permit.
OCI cardholders are treated like other foreign passport holders when entering these regions. Airport staff helped the couple fill in the form, but they could not complete the payment process. The fee was Rs 4,000, payable through either Axis Bank or SBI.
“I tried more than 20 times through Axis bank, and it was not possible,” Biakdika said. The payment would not go through, and the couple went ahead with their journey without having paid.
Foreign nationals visiting Mizoram say they cannot apply for a Protected Area Permit (PAP) until they are already in India. Three travellers told EastMojo about fines, a cancelled trip and unclear paperwork. RTI replies from the Ministry of Home Affairs and the Intelligence Bureau declined to answer questions on application volumes, processing times and fines.
It was nearly three weeks into their stay before a payment option finally worked. “After going through different formalities, we found we could make the payment within three weeks of our stay,” he said. “We tried to make the payment through a relative’s SBI card.”
By then, the consequences had caught up with him. While in Aizawl, Biakdika received an email imposing a fine of Rs 50,000 for entering the state without having paid for the permit.
Approved during exit
Travellers say the main issue is that a PAP cannot be applied for beforehand. Another visitor, who spoke to EastMojo on condition of anonymity, came to Mizoram in June from Washington, DC.
He was not allowed to apply beforehand, and because he stayed only a short time, his PAP was approved when he was already on his way out of India.
“Why can’t they allow foreigners to apply for a PAP ahead of time before coming to India?” he asked. “And then the instructions are not always clear, as they require additional documentation, which they could easily have requested on the initial submission. After this, it takes about a week to get the PAP approved. What if someone wants to visit Mizoram just for a day or two? Then there is no way to get a PAP in time.”
His account matches the state’s own guidance. The Mizoram Tourism website says all foreigners must obtain a PAP before coming to Mizoram by applying online through the e-FRRO portal, but that they can apply for this service only after reaching India.
The same page says accommodation providers, including individuals, must enter details of foreign guests in Form C within 24 hours of arrival.
A scholar who cancelled his trip
Gareth Davey, a British tourist and scholar, said he cancelled his visit because of uncertainty around the application process. He said the available information does not explain which documents must be submitted, in what format, or how applicants can get authoritative clarification.
Davey said he understood an application had to be filed about two weeks before travel, with hotel bookings and residence details submitted alongside it, so a rejection could leave a traveller out of pocket for non-refundable bookings. Guidance on Indian mission websites gives similar timelines, but Mizoram Tourism’s own website says foreigners can apply only after reaching India.
If the application is rejected, the tourist loses the hotel booking money. It was also not made clear that other forms, including Form C, had to be completed, he said. Form C, which he found had limited functionality, is filed by the host or hotel rather than the traveller.
His total loss was approximately Rs 16,000, along with wasted time. He weighed that against the possibility of a Rs 50,000 fine or more serious consequences. A complaint he sent to numerous government and tourism offices produced many “undelivered” email notices.
“The cancellation of this trip has seriously damaged my confidence in travelling to India,” he said. “At present, I am unlikely to consider another visit.”
How the PAP came back
The PAP comes from the Foreigners (Protected Areas) Order, 1958, which restricts foreigners’ entry to border and other sensitive areas. It covers the whole of Arunachal Pradesh, Sikkim, Manipur, Nagaland and Mizoram, along with parts of Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Rajasthan and Uttarakhand.
On December 30, 2010, the Ministry of Home Affairs relaxed the regime in Manipur, Nagaland and Mizoram to boost tourism. It took effect in 2011 and was extended repeatedly, reportedly until December 31, 2027.
Under it, foreigners only had to register with the Foreigners Registration Officer within 24 hours of arrival. In Mizoram, that officer is the Superintendent of Police (CID/SB).
On December 17, 2024, the MHA reimposed the regime in Manipur, Nagaland and Mizoram. The circular withdrew the relaxation with immediate effect. The stated reason was security concerns arising from an influx from neighbouring countries. Over 40,000 refugees from Myanmar’s Kuki-Chin-Zo ethnic group have entered Mizoram.
Mizoram rolled it out in 2025. On March 10, 2025, Chief Minister Lalduhoma told the Assembly his government was not opposing the reimposition.
He said Mizoram was being secretly used by foreigners as a transit route to Myanmar. He said nearly 2,000 foreigners visited between June and December 2024, many not as tourists, and left unnoticed.
He said the state had initially opposed the decision but came to understand the reasoning. On March 31, the state Home Secretary said a holding area was being identified at Lengpui airport on the Home Ministry’s direction.
Notices went to foreign embassies, and airlines flying to Lengpui were told to inform international passengers about the permit.
The legal footing also changed. The Foreigners Act, 1946 was repealed. The Immigration and Foreigners Act, 2025 came into force on September 1, 2025.
Orders and actions under the repealed laws are deemed to continue under the corresponding provisions of the new Act. One of the provisions is that entering restricted areas without authorisation carries up to five years’ imprisonment or a fine of up to Rs 5 lakh.
A contrast in Nagaland
Nagaland offers a contrast. The Centre lifted the PAP regime for 10 days around the Hornbill Festival, from December 1, 2025. The state set up on-arrival PAP counters at airports, with approvals issued within 15 minutes, subject to connectivity. Chief Minister Neiphiu Rio had written twice to the Union Home Minister seeking flexibility.
Mizoram’s own leader has asked for easier rules. Lalduhoma has appealed to the Home Ministry to simplify the PAP procedure but there have been no changes made as of this report.
Confidential to RTI
EastMojo filed an RTI with the Ministry of Home Affairs with 12 questions. The responses came by mail between July and August 2026.
The questions asked for the total number of PAP applications filed for entry into Mizoram, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland for the financial years 2024-25 and 2025-26, and for the average processing time, from the date of application to approval or rejection, for each of those years.
Other questions asked for copies of any circulars, guidelines, office memoranda or internal instructions on the procedure to follow when a PAP applicant is present in the protected area while their application is under review.
EastMojo asked whether any legal provision or administrative exemption protects such an applicant from being fined or penalised between the date of application and the date of the authority’s decision.
EastMojo also asked for copies of any instructions, circulars, advisories or communications issued to airlines and travel agents on recording the nationality of passengers travelling to the four states at the time of booking, including the date of issue and the issuing authority.
Noting that PAP requirements for Nagaland were relaxed during the Hornbill Festival period, it asked the ministry to confirm whether the relaxation was granted, the dates it was in effect, and the legal provision or administrative authority under which it was granted.
The final question asked for the maximum duration for which PAP requirements may be relaxed under existing provisions, and whether any category of persons may be granted a standing exemption or simplified process under the same provisions used for festival-related relaxations.
On the questions about the number of applications and the average processing time, the response came from the Intelligence Bureau of the Ministry of Home Affairs, signed by Digendra Singh, Assistant Director and CPIO. It said the information pertains to the Bureau of Immigration, which under Chapter VI, Section 24(1) and the Second Schedule of the RTI Act, 2005, is exempt from providing any information on the subject.
On the questions about internal instructions for applicants present in the protected area while under review, and about the Hornbill Festival relaxation, the Ministry of Home Affairs Foreigners-I division responded that the information is confidential and secret and exempt from disclosure.
On the questions about the legal provision for fines during a pending application, the instructions to airlines and travel agents, and the limits on relaxation, the response came from Ram Dayal Meena, Director (F) and CPIO. It said the information officer cannot create information and is not required to provide advice or opinion.
What the numbers show
The uncertainty over the PAP affects not only the Mizo diaspora but also the tourism industry the state is trying to promote. Mizoram launched a 2026 Tourism Events and Festival Calendar to encourage longer stays and has lined up about Rs 395 crore in infrastructure projects, including eco-resorts, ropeways and heritage centres.
It has also announced 100 rural homestays and is working with NITI Aayog on a revamped tourism policy, hotel management training and an upcoming Tourism Conclave.
But foreign visitors are a small part of the picture, and few are tourists from distant countries. Between April and August 2026, Mizoram recorded 3,74,273 visitors, of whom 6,135 were foreign, about 1.6%. Of those, 4,698 were Myanmar nationals, nearly 77%. Every other country combined accounted for 1,437 arrivals, about 0.4% of all visitors. The US was the largest group in that remainder, with 468.
Also Read: Rivers don’t send push notifications: Lessons from Dzongu to Bangkok
You just read a story that took days to report. Help us keep our reporters on the ground in the Northeast.
Ad-free reading, support and keep important stories alive
Support once (any amount)
Scan to pay via UPI