Guwahati: Nirmola Kalita, a weaver in Assam’s Kamrup district, sounded happy that the hand-woven ‘gamosas (traditional Assamese scarf or towel made of cotton) she and her family members have prepared may get a ‘good deal’ in this peak season of Bohag Bihu.
She believed that the recent decision by the Assam government to launch a crackdown against the power loom produced mekhela sador (Assamese traditional saree), gamosa and aronai (Bodo traditional scarf) would yield good results for many local weavers like her.
The market of Assam’s hand-woven traditional mekhela sador, gamosa and aronai has been perennially hit by machine-made ‘cheaper’ identical garments, mostly from Surat in Gujrat. Despite the efforts and announcements made by several state governments, the arrival of such garments in the Assam market remains unabated.
However, the state government, in a recent notification, has asked the district administrations and police across the state to ban the sale of power loom-produced mekhela sador, gamosa, aronai and other garments from March 1 to April 14 in the run-up to Bohag Bihu. Directions were also issued to conduct special drives to prevent the production, import, and sale of such power loom-made garments by enforcement teams.
“I am happy that the government is working for the local handloom and textile producers. But why for only one month? There must be a permanent policy to restrict the incoming of such items and improve the life and production of the local weavers,” Kalita said.
Weavers’ community in the state has been demanding a fair market and price for their products and pressing the government to take steps against the ‘cheaper’ gamosa, mekhela sador and other traditional attire. Many times, members of the community have also hit the streets to press for their demands.
The weavers alleged that artificial silk brought from other parts of the country for making the traditional Assamese attire was affecting their market and the silk industry in the state. They also alleged that even the shops were not selling pure Assamese golden Muga Silk and white Paat Silk but pushing the sale of such ‘cheaper’ products for benefits.
A handmade mekhela sador is expensive, whereas machine-made products are less expensive and have better finishing. Moreover, with more time needed for producing a hand-loomed mekhela sador, the demand is usually filled by the clothes coming from Surat in Gujarat.
While a handloom mekhela sador would cost around Rs 5,000 to Rs 8,000, Surat’s machine-made mekhela sador is available for only Rs 500 Rs to Rs 700. The Surat-made mekhela sadors have been in high demand as they were cost-effective. In Surat, traders use polyester, cotton, nylon and kota yarns to make mekhela sadors on power looms, while traditional weavers from Assam use silk and khadi.
Assam government spokesperson Pijush Hazarika said the move was initiated to spread awareness in favour of using handloom and textile products from the state and to protect the interest of the local weavers.
However, the state government’s move did not go very well in Gujarat, the state of Prime Minister Narendra Modi.
Ashok Jeerawala, president of the Gujarat Weavers Welfare Association, said, “There is a BJP government in both the states. It is not right to ban Surat sarees in Assam. It may spoil the relations between the two states. Prime Minister Modi and Gujarat chief minister Bhupendra Patel should intervene and talk to Assam CM Himanta Biswa Sarma.”
Surat, a giant producer of garments in the country, makes for over 60 per cent of the consumption of the northeastern state. General secretary of the Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association (FOSTTA), Champalal Bothra, told the media, “The sudden ban will impact around 700 to 800 traders and 300 to 400 weavers along with the labourers associated with the looms producing mekhala sador in Surat that has a turnover of around Rs 3,000 crore annually.” He added that over 10,000 families were directly or indirectly associated with the trade.
“With the upcoming Bihu festival, Surat traders have produced a large quantity of mekhela sador, and unlike Assam, it is not sellable to other states, so the ban will cost Surat traders very heavily,” he added.
According to estimates, finished items worth Rs 150 crore were ready to be shipped from Surat, while goods worth more than Rs 200 crore were either on their way to Assam or have already reached the state. Traders both in Assam and Gujarat were now believed to be trying to negotiate their deals. However, losses on both sides were almost fixed.
“Our priority is the protection of the interests of our local producers and the women who work on handlooms. These power loom operators don’t just produce mekhela sador but also our traditional gamosa in a way that the quality and properties are compromised,” said the Assam government spokesperson.
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Meanwhile, Gujarat BJP president CR Paatil has assured to intervene in the matter. “They (the traders) have sought to request the Assam government to give some time to clear the stocks. The traders have also assured that once the current stock of mekhela sadors is cleared, they would not manufacture it again,” said Paatil.
On March 4, the FOSTTA also met union textile minister Darshana Jardosh to find a way ahead.
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