Guwahati: An Assam tribe’s resolve to preserve age-old traditions in the lap of mother nature has birthed the ‘Under the Sal Tree festival’, held every year in Rampur village in Goalpara district of Assam. Every December, for 3-4 days, all roads lead to the little makeshift stage in a forest clearing where talents from India and abroad converge to showcase their theatrical talents at an open air theatre managed by the Badungduppa theatre group, a troupe of local artists who are highly regarded for their incredible talent and keen eye for detail.
What makes this community-driven festival unique is that it is held in the close proximity of nature, sans any artificial lighting or electronic devices for sound amplification. Instead, the stage is set up inside a sal forest in Rampur. What breathes life into this festival is the sheer dedication and creativity of the artists who use this unique opportunity to express their artistic selves.
The captivating nature of these performances was on full display at the 13th edition of the festival, which kicked off on December 15, 2022, with a rendition of ‘Rishi Jolongka’, a play based on a folk hero of the Rabha tribe, directed by playwright Dhananjay Rabha.
The director of this play had honed his craft under Sukracharya Rabha, the founder of the festival. Mixing comedy, tragedy and drama, with a few musical performances sprinkled in for good measure, the homegrown talents mesmerized the audience with emotion, expression, and pitch perfect tones. The only music came from indigenously made instruments.
To trace the roots of this festival held beneath the sal trees in Rampur, one has to go back to 2008, when theatre artist Sukracharjya Rabha, impressed by the alternative theatre of his mentor Kanhailal, sought to form an alternative festival of his own. Although Saukracharjya passed away due to a heart attack in 2018, the legacy is being carried on by Cheena Rabha, his widow, who is aided by Rabhas who dwell on the fringes of the forest.
“A play cannot be conceptualized in a day. It takes immaculate planning and dedication. Everyday we practice so that we can perfect our performances and act better,” Cheema, who played a key role in ‘Rishi Jolongka’, tells EastMojo, giving an insight into the actors’ creative process.
“This year, we have a wonderful line-up featuring artists from all corners of India and one troupe from Sri Lanka,” Madan Rabha, the Managing Director of the play told EastMojo. “Everyday, we have 10-15 young men working here to ensure that affairs are in order,” he says while giving us a tour of the Badungduppa Kala Kendra, a field of great significance located less than 1 km further up the road from the theatre site that hosts the artists during their stay and where theatre connoisseurs converge to discuss the arts amid the festival.
At the ‘Kala Kendra’, the culture of the Rabha tribe is highlighted through stalls selling books by members of the community and another one selling indigenously woven attires, especially for women.
45-year-old playwright Anasuya Subhasinghe, whose play ‘My Sweet Rotten Heritance’ kicked off on the second day of the festival, tells EastMojo that the event brings respite from the troubles back home.
“Sri Lankans have had it tough the past few years. The COVID-19 pandemic, ensuing lockdowns, and the economic crisis in our country have been a huge downer, so I see this as a great opportunity to explore something beautiful and unique, away from the hassles of life.”
Subhasinghe says she was drawn to the festival after a friend shared pictures of the open air amphitheatre online.
“For several years now, pictures of the open air stage have been circulating among theatre practitioners in Sri Lanka. We were all in awe of that stage and it is truly a dream for us to perform outdoors,” she explains when asked about what brought her to the festival. “With this festival, we are looking back into our past and the way we used to perform without electricity and the acoustics of this stage is immaculate,” she adds.
25-year-old Pratiksha Khasnis from Kolhapur in Maharashtra, whose play ‘Alor Gaan’ was performed during the first day of this year’s festival, says she always wondered why the festival was not held in a conventional proscenium ever since she came to know about it as a student at Pune University.
“I researched about it and discovered that they are hosting it under the sal tree because your voice resonates here. There are no microphones, sound amplifiers, or lights. Here, you are giving yourself to the audience. It is an interactive experience. There are no boundaries, there is no fourth wall,” she tells us, adding that getting selected for the festival was “a dream come true” for her and her troupe.
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In previous editions, theatre groups from South Korea, Brazil, Poland and neighbouring Bangladesh have also participated and performed their plays in the festival.
Despite the international attention, however, the festival stays true to its roots, ensuring that it retains its appeal among the locals from nearby villagers, most of whom peddle in on their cycles to the venue. “We are so glad because such a big festival is going on so close to our home. That is why we come without fail to watch the plays. We like the fact that so many people from outside grace our locales during this time,” beams Janani Rabha, a villager.
Slowly but surely, the unique ‘Under the Sal Tree’ festival has turned into one of the few perfect havens in Assam, where people can meet, discuss, and share their love for the arts and creativity, all while feeling a strong connection with Mother Nature.
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